On picturesque Cockwood harbour, this 450-year-old inn and former seaman's mission has many old settles, timber paneling, low beams and snugs, with an impressive display of old nautical memorabilia. It has an extensive award-winning seafood menu, with mussels a speciality. Up to five ales are usually offered. Haunted by a friendly ghost and his dog, this is a really atmospheric Devon gem. Close to the main GWR line, it is a steam train spotters' paradise. Limited parking; bus stop over bridge.